Erfurt

Part 2, at long last

 I think it took me so long to get around to telling you about Erfurt, because there was so much to take in and to understand about this part of my trip, that even now I am still processing it.

Erfurt is the major city (population 200,000) closest to the geographic center of Germany.  It is the location of the oldest synagogue in Germany, and in fact, in Central Europe (I have never heard a really good definition of where exactly Central Europe starts and ends... so I will leave you to imagine that on your own.  Go wild.  Just know, as soon as your mental map includes any synagogues built before 1094, STOP, you have gone too far!!).

As I arrived in Erfurt for the second time, I was met at the train station by Ines Beese, the director of the Klein Synagogue (small synagogue), dating to the 1840s and the Alte Synagogue (old synagogue) from 1094.  Both buildings belong to the city of Erfurt, not to the Jewish community, but as previously mentioned, are on very good terms with the community.

The Klein Synagogue now serves as a Begegnungsstätte, which is a term basically meaning meeting place.  The building, which served as a synagogue for only 44 years before the Erfurt Jewish community outgrew it, was converted into a private property, thereby saving it from the torments of Kristallnacht (it´s grandeer replacement was not so lucky).  Today it houses a small exhibit about the 19th and 20th century Jewish community in Erfurt as well as some information about Jewish life in general.  Pictured here is a traditional Shabbat table and some information about how the Jewish sabbath is celebrated.  I thought this was great.  It is of course interesting and important to share information about individual Jewish communities, but I am often disappointed to see how rarely basic, straight forward information about Jewish life and practices is available in Jewish museums.  The basics are pretty important, I think, if a Jewish museum or historic site considers tolerance education, demystification of "otherness" or debunking stereotypes to be anywhere in its mission or goals.

The Klein Synagogue also includes steps leading down to the now cemented-over ritual bath (mikve)

 and a spectacular view of the Gera river (a fresh flowing water source is necessary for a Jewish ritual bath)

                                                  (hmmm ritual purification sure looks chilly....)


The sanctuary is used for speeches, concerts, etc.

So that is a Begegnungsstätte.

As I have learned, however, there are a lot of words that can be used to describe the uses for historic buildings/monuments.  Most of them involve the word Mal (marker) or Stätte (site).  A Begegnungsstätte, according to my definition, is a site for interaction, usually public programming.  Any space could be a Begegnungsstätte if educational activities, talks, speeches, etc take place there. Then there is a Denkmal, which is sort of a general word for a monument or a memorial, a place to mark thoughts.  I sort of envision that anything that has a plaque on it is a Denkmal, although the plaque itself is an Erinnerungstafel (a memory board).  Then there is a Gedenkstätte, which means a memory place, and so a memorial.  And then finally there is a Mahnmal, which is basically just like a Denkmal, except it is implied that there is some sort of warning to future generations.

I bring up this tangent not only to show the complexities and specificities that German offers to the examination of historic sites and memorials (and not to put you to sleep), but because the concept of a Mahnmal is something of particular interest.  It is a relatively recent concept to mark and memorialize sites as warnings to future generations about societal mistakes, rather than memorializing moments of societal pride.  This is an area of memorializing that Germany continues to expand, pioneer and experiment with.

In fact one interesting example of what I guess might be defined as Mahnmale in Germany are known as  Stolpersteine, stumbling blocks.  Starting in 1993 small stones with the names of Holocaust victims began to be installed in the streets in front of their former homes in cities across Germany, and now in other countries as well.  Stolpersteine are only installed and dedicated after individuals do research on the victim to be memorialized, a way of making the process more personal.  There are to date over 25,000 Stolpersteine in Europe, despite criticism by some individuals and rejection by some cities.

Erfurt does not have Stolpersteine.  They have... the DenkNadel...

This is a DenkNadel, a memory needle.  There are 5 in Erfurt.  Basically Erfurt missed the Stolpersteine phenomenon and decided, instead of jumping on the bandwagon late in the game, to do their own thing. A competition was held, and the DenkNadel was selected.  Like Stolpersteine, the DenkNadel has its supporters and its critics.  No longer is their concern that people will step on and disrespect or simply ignore this type of memorial, which stands 1.5 meters high (about 5 feet).  However, in some people´s opinion the solemn marker more closely resembles an ice cream cone.  They also cost about 350 Euro to install, making the process an expensive one.  In any case, I had the opportunity to attend a meeting of the extremely well-intentioned group (mostly students and volunteers) responsible for the DenkNadel.


Finally, there was the old synagogue.

      (seasonally inaccurate picture - but all of mine came out poorly, so please imagine snow and ice, thanks)

Built originally in 1094, the old Synagogue was used by the medieval Jewish community of Erfurt until 1349.  Usually the exact years aren´t really important.  I had a professor in college who always said, "it is the order of the events and not the actual dates that make a difference".  But, 1349 is pretty important.  It is right in the middle of the years when the Plague ravaged the world and decimated the population of Europe (by some calculations killing 50% of the European population).  But not all of the victimes of the plague fell victim directly to the high fevers and bloody boils... some were murdered.

Rumors spread that the Jews had poisoned the wells, resulting in the massive spread of disease.  In 200 cities and towns across central Europe the Jewish communities were wiped out.  Erfurt was one of these cities.  On March 21, 1349 over 100 Jews were killed, and about 900 others (the remainder of the community) gathered together in buildings that were then set on fire.

Although a Jewish community returned to Erfurt in following centuries, the old synagogue was forgotten.  It became a storage building for centuries, and then in the DDR, it was used as a dance hall.  The original use of the building was completely forgotten until the end of the 20th century, when renewed interest in Jewish history in Germany led to its rediscovery.  Then being used as a catering hall, the building was purchased by the city of Erfurt, and restored.

Reopened in 2009 as a museum, the old Synagogue is the first museum in Germany to use video iPod tours.  The video iPods, models and laser lights worked with the restoration decision to keep the former sanctuary space empty, mostly bare stone walls, low lighting, sparse outlines.  Taking a building back over 6 centuries means depending some on technology and the imaginations of visitors.  The upstairs space, used for exhibits, is restored as a 1960s dance hall.

And in the basement, the Erfurt Treasure is housed.

Hidden in 1349 under threat of violence, this treasure trove was uncovered in the late 1990s as an Erfurter family did renovations on their home.  Perfectly preserved and one of the largest collections of silver coins and jewels to ever be unearthed, the Erfurt Treasure is truly magnificent.  The only specifically Jewish artifact is the largest medieval Jewish wedding ring known to exist.  The ring is shaped like a small tower with Mazel Tov (Good luck/Congratulations) written on the tiny roof in Hebrew script.  The bottom of the ring is constructed of interlocking hands, a symbol of love and commitment popular at the time.  The original owner of the collection is unknown.  It includes enough silver coins to have paid the Jewish tax for the entire city of Erfurt for the year in which it was hidden.

Hopefully I will have the opportunity to return to Erfurt in the Spring when the medieval Mikve will be dedicated.